I am totally jaded when it comes to surfing. It gives me a feeling of total
freedom. I am in my own world in the ocean, it is my sacred space. I have
been surfing since I was seven and will do so until I am physically unable.
Although once an athlete, this was one sport I chose not to compete in,
maybe because it would take all the fun out of it and then it would just
be business. Yeah, OK, I'd surf even if I got paid for it!
I have surfed in California, Washington State, Hawaii, and whenever it's
"up" in my home state, Florida. Hawaii is truly sacred and vicious!
The most intense feeling i've ever had was renting a like 12 foot original
60's redwood (not fiber glassed) board that weighed like 200 lb. and surfing
long lines, perfect waves in Hawaii. The second most intense feeling was
surfing solo in Merritt Island with no one around and the space shuttle
went off right over me...kind of scary when you weren't expecting it!
Recommended surf spots in FL: Ponce Inlet, Sebastian Inlet, Cocoa Beach,
Anastasia State Park (St.Augustine), the pier at Flagler Beach. Why all
world class surfers some from Florida I do not know, the majority of the
time the surf is flat! Help us, Leviathan, in search for bigger and more
consistent surf! But I will take what I can get!! Hey, at least I live
by the beach! Accomplishment #1 complete! |
